The benefit of moving to the northern hemisphere when your birthday is in July is you finally get to have a summer birthday! This year for my birthday all I wished for was to lay on the beach, drink pina coladas and swim in the ocean.
To fulfill my wish we jetted to Mallorca, a large spanish island off the east coast of mainland Spain. I have long dreamed about visiting Mallorca after studying Can Lis, the residence of Darnish Architect Jorn Utzon.
We caught to 4am National Express bus from Golders Green station (conveniently our local tube station) to Luton airport for the 6am EasyJet flight to Palma de Mallorca. While booking the tickets earlier could have reduced the cost of the transfer, it was a hassle free way to get to the airport.
We arrived at the airport in Palma a little before 10am, after the fastest I have ever moved through a customs check, and picked up our little Smart Fortwo from Sixt car hire. Fair warning, I have never driven on the right-hand side of the road before, and knew we were in for an interesting day.
On our journey to Portopetro to see Can Lis, we slowly wound our way along the south coast of the island. While there is no coast front road to drive around, there are plenty of amazing lookouts to stop at if you depart from the main road.
Far de Cap Blac Lookout
Our favourite was Far de Cap Blac, a light house on the edge of the cliffs, where you could look over the beautiful blue waters of the Mediterranean and back to Palma.
We made it to Can Lis around 1pm. I had booked a time slot online for 2pm but it quickly became apparent we didn't need one. If you are visiting Mallorca and have a few hours to drive out to Portopetro, I would recommend a visit to Can Lis. Even if you aren't an architecture nerd like me. Not only is it an amazing example of Uzton architecture, it gives a glimpse into the island lifestyle and it has amazing views of the ocean.
Can Lis, Portopetro
After spending what was well over an hour wandering through the house, we jumped back into our little car and headed to Manacor.
Manacor is the very proud home town of tennis great Rafael Nadal. Home to his own tennis academy and museum, Manacor is one of the larger towns on the eastern side of the island. We stopped in for a snack and a walk around the quiet streets, during siesta, to find the Parroquia de la Mare de Deu dels Dolors de Manacor, a beautiful church whose spire we could see from the road into town.
Absolutely exhausted from the early morning and lack of sleep, we began the hour drive back to Palma. After a false start in dropping the car back, after learning that just because the fuel station attendant tells you the tank is full doesn't mean it is, we returned the car to the rentals at the airport.
Here is where I should note that with the combination of right-hand side roads, tiredness, and spanish round-a-bouts (mixers), we were glad we made it back in one piece!
All we had to do now was jump on a bus and make our way into Palma, then onto Cala Major where we were staying. We had chosen to take the bus option as I had read reviews online saying it was affordable and easy. Affordable, yes. At 5€ one way and 8€ return. Easy, no way! Not only did the machine only accept specific notes and coins, which were not dispensed from the ATMs inside the terminal, the round trip machine would accept our money. In a mad rush not to miss the bus we had a run with the single trip ticket. This allowed for 1 airport bus trip + 1 bus transfer.
We hopped onto the crowded bus less than excited about the sweltering heat (we might be Australians but it was hot!), but knew we were less than an hour from our destination. This was until the bus dropped us seemingly randomly in the city. "Last stop", yelled the bus driver. Everyone looked just as confused as we were. Not knowing how long the next bus would be, or if our 1 bus transfer would allow us to get to our destination, we pulled out our phones and used trusty google maps to save the day.
After an 8 minute walk to another bus stop, google told us the bus would arrive in 5 minutes. 25 minutes later we hopped on an even more crowded bus and stood in the doorway as the bus door hit my bag trying to close. Exhausted we weren't getting off!
Finally, after learning that buses in Mallorca are a little unreliable, we were dropped off near our hotel. We chose to stay at the Be Live Hotel Marivent, one of the three Be Live adults only hotels in Cala Major, due to the beach frontage. While the hotel looked a little older on the exterior than we were expecting, the rooms were modern, clean, and spacious. Not that we planned to spend anytime in the room, we were here for the beach.
Cala Major beach has dozens on grass umbrellas and lounges which I highly recommend as the sand gets ridiculously hot! A days hire will set you back 16€ and you also get a lock box to store your valuables while you are taking a dip in the beautiful water. The beach itself is relatively sheltered with very few waves, and waist deep water that extends at least 20 metres off the shore. Also, its patrolled by lifeguards so its very safe! With easy access to plenty of food options and even a little bar you can eat, drink, and sunbathe until your heart's content.
After a hard day of relaxing in the sun we dined at Pelicano Beach, on the beach front, and watched the sunset.
On our final day in Mallorca we decided to visit the Catedral-Bascilia de Santa Maria de Mallorca on the way to the airport. After our less than impressive bus experience we decided to try a taxi. Within minutes of the hotel calling for a cab there was one arriving to collect us. A quick 10 minute trip, and we were at the cathedral.
The cathedral, built in the 13th century, is a beautiful example of Spanish Gothic architecture perched on a hill overlooking the ocean.
Unfortunately, as the cathedral has a strict policy on that you can take inside, we had our large bags so we admired it from the outside. We wandered the beautiful streets around the cathedral, then across to the Guiness House for Paella.
With plenty of ease, we hailed a cab for the 15 minute journey to the airport. Total taxi cost for the day, 30€. Peace of mind, priceless!
We enjoyed Mallorca endlessly and will definitely be heading back in the future to explore the western side of the island and more of the old city.
All my love, S
Parroquia de la Mare de Deu dels Dolors de Manacor
Absolutely exhausted from the early morning and lack of sleep, we began the hour drive back to Palma. After a false start in dropping the car back, after learning that just because the fuel station attendant tells you the tank is full doesn't mean it is, we returned the car to the rentals at the airport.
Here is where I should note that with the combination of right-hand side roads, tiredness, and spanish round-a-bouts (mixers), we were glad we made it back in one piece!
All we had to do now was jump on a bus and make our way into Palma, then onto Cala Major where we were staying. We had chosen to take the bus option as I had read reviews online saying it was affordable and easy. Affordable, yes. At 5€ one way and 8€ return. Easy, no way! Not only did the machine only accept specific notes and coins, which were not dispensed from the ATMs inside the terminal, the round trip machine would accept our money. In a mad rush not to miss the bus we had a run with the single trip ticket. This allowed for 1 airport bus trip + 1 bus transfer.
We hopped onto the crowded bus less than excited about the sweltering heat (we might be Australians but it was hot!), but knew we were less than an hour from our destination. This was until the bus dropped us seemingly randomly in the city. "Last stop", yelled the bus driver. Everyone looked just as confused as we were. Not knowing how long the next bus would be, or if our 1 bus transfer would allow us to get to our destination, we pulled out our phones and used trusty google maps to save the day.
After an 8 minute walk to another bus stop, google told us the bus would arrive in 5 minutes. 25 minutes later we hopped on an even more crowded bus and stood in the doorway as the bus door hit my bag trying to close. Exhausted we weren't getting off!
View Cala Major beach from our hotel room
Finally, after learning that buses in Mallorca are a little unreliable, we were dropped off near our hotel. We chose to stay at the Be Live Hotel Marivent, one of the three Be Live adults only hotels in Cala Major, due to the beach frontage. While the hotel looked a little older on the exterior than we were expecting, the rooms were modern, clean, and spacious. Not that we planned to spend anytime in the room, we were here for the beach.
Cala Major Beach
Cala Major beach has dozens on grass umbrellas and lounges which I highly recommend as the sand gets ridiculously hot! A days hire will set you back 16€ and you also get a lock box to store your valuables while you are taking a dip in the beautiful water. The beach itself is relatively sheltered with very few waves, and waist deep water that extends at least 20 metres off the shore. Also, its patrolled by lifeguards so its very safe! With easy access to plenty of food options and even a little bar you can eat, drink, and sunbathe until your heart's content.
After a hard day of relaxing in the sun we dined at Pelicano Beach, on the beach front, and watched the sunset.
Catedral-Bascilia de Santa Maria de Mallorca
Palma de Mallorca
On our final day in Mallorca we decided to visit the Catedral-Bascilia de Santa Maria de Mallorca on the way to the airport. After our less than impressive bus experience we decided to try a taxi. Within minutes of the hotel calling for a cab there was one arriving to collect us. A quick 10 minute trip, and we were at the cathedral.
The cathedral, built in the 13th century, is a beautiful example of Spanish Gothic architecture perched on a hill overlooking the ocean.
Unfortunately, as the cathedral has a strict policy on that you can take inside, we had our large bags so we admired it from the outside. We wandered the beautiful streets around the cathedral, then across to the Guiness House for Paella.
With plenty of ease, we hailed a cab for the 15 minute journey to the airport. Total taxi cost for the day, 30€. Peace of mind, priceless!
We enjoyed Mallorca endlessly and will definitely be heading back in the future to explore the western side of the island and more of the old city.
All my love, S
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