With the holidays upon us, and my brother Will visiting from Australia, Adrienne and I planned a quick pre-Christmas trip to Italy. The original plan was to drive the entire west coast over ten days, however we found during the research phase of planning that this particular conquest during the festive season was not going kind to our bank accounts.
As we had all been to Italy previously, we made the decision to restrict ourselves to something a little less ambitious. Four days before Christmas, we embarked on our whistle stop tour of Rome, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast.
Day One
In the spirit of all our adventures, we flew out on the first flight from Luton airport to Rome.
Somewhere along the way to the gate, we misplaced Will for 20 minutes. Thankfully, we maintained our streak for "no flights missed".
For ease of access, to and from the airport, we stayed a short walk from the main train station, Roma Termini. After checking into our accommodation at BB Queen, a modest hotel east of the centre, we made our way in.
Somewhere along the way to the gate, we misplaced Will for 20 minutes. Thankfully, we maintained our streak for "no flights missed".
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For ease of access, to and from the airport, we stayed a short walk from the main train station, Roma Termini. After checking into our accommodation at BB Queen, a modest hotel east of the centre, we made our way in.
Victor Emmanuel Monument
The last time Will and I were in Rome (twelve years ago) the Victor Emmanuel Monument was covered in scaffold. This time, we happened upon it on our quest for lunch. The impressive temple honors First World War soldiers, and I was delighted to finally see it in all its glory.
Lunch was had at a restaurant that promised a panoramic view of the Victor Emmanuel Monument and wonderful pasta. What we found instead was mediocre food and an even more mediocre view. Needless to say, it isn't worth mentioning.
Pantheon
As always, we seemingly stumbled across the Pantheon. One of my favourite buildings in Rome, its coffered dome and singular oculus have entranced me during both visits. The sun made an appearance from behind the cloud, and made this moment a little more magical.
The last time Will and I were in Rome (twelve years ago) the Victor Emmanuel Monument was covered in scaffold. This time, we happened upon it on our quest for lunch. The impressive temple honors First World War soldiers, and I was delighted to finally see it in all its glory.
Victor Emmanuel Monument
Lunch was had at a restaurant that promised a panoramic view of the Victor Emmanuel Monument and wonderful pasta. What we found instead was mediocre food and an even more mediocre view. Needless to say, it isn't worth mentioning.
Pantheon
As always, we seemingly stumbled across the Pantheon. One of my favourite buildings in Rome, its coffered dome and singular oculus have entranced me during both visits. The sun made an appearance from behind the cloud, and made this moment a little more magical.
The Pantheon
Trevi Fountation
Will led the charge to the Trevi Fountain. We hurried through the streets and plunged into the crowds gathered around the fountain. Surprisingly, we quite easily found ourselves a position at the front to toss a coin and snap a few photos. The perks of visiting in winter, perhaps, or having truly adapted to London life.
Will led the charge to the Trevi Fountain. We hurried through the streets and plunged into the crowds gathered around the fountain. Surprisingly, we quite easily found ourselves a position at the front to toss a coin and snap a few photos. The perks of visiting in winter, perhaps, or having truly adapted to London life.
The Trevi Fountain
Spanish Steps
On our previous trip, my parents regaled stories of their travels of 1986, when the Spanish Steps was a place that locals would gather. In 2007, it was covered in tourists. So, I'd never actually seen the Spanish Steps, let alone walked up them. We were amazed to discover them virtually bare. I'll admit, this was largely due to the lady with a whistle, taking with preventing anyone from taking a seat. From the top, we watched the sunset over Rome.
The Spanish Steps
Day Two
We received the hot tip from a few friends to book a tour of the Colosseum to ensure speedy entry. And it didn't disappoint! We booked a small group tour of the Colosseum, Palatine Hill and the Forum through City Wonders for $28 (around £14).
Colosseum
Twelve years ago, when Will and I first came to Rome with our parents, the line to the Colosseum was ridiculously long. We told them not to worry, as we would certainly go back one day. Little did we know we would go back together all these years later.
The tour certainly guaranteed "skip-the-line" access. A few security checks and we were in. We climbed the ridiculously steep stairs, and I discovered muscles I didn't know I had, before wandering around one side of the amphitheatre. Peering down into the labyrinth of tunnels, the guide told stories of Gladiators, and even mock sea battles, that had once taken place within the walls of the ancient venue.
Twelve years ago, when Will and I first came to Rome with our parents, the line to the Colosseum was ridiculously long. We told them not to worry, as we would certainly go back one day. Little did we know we would go back together all these years later.
The Colosseum
The tour certainly guaranteed "skip-the-line" access. A few security checks and we were in. We climbed the ridiculously steep stairs, and I discovered muscles I didn't know I had, before wandering around one side of the amphitheatre. Peering down into the labyrinth of tunnels, the guide told stories of Gladiators, and even mock sea battles, that had once taken place within the walls of the ancient venue.
Inside of Colosseum
Roman Forum
I have particularly fond memories of visiting the Roman Forum as a 16 year old. I stood listening to my Dad tell stories of Roman life, politics, and battles. Going back was certainly bittersweet, but nonetheless fascinating to once again wander the ancient roads and imagine what it would have been like thousands of years ago.
The Vatican City
Our stroll to the Vatican was where one of the most iconic phrases of our trip was coined, "Follow the Nuns to the Vat". And that is exactly what we did. With a small detour to get gelato on the way, of course!
I have particularly fond memories of visiting the Roman Forum as a 16 year old. I stood listening to my Dad tell stories of Roman life, politics, and battles. Going back was certainly bittersweet, but nonetheless fascinating to once again wander the ancient roads and imagine what it would have been like thousands of years ago.
The Roman Forum
The Vatican City
Our stroll to the Vatican was where one of the most iconic phrases of our trip was coined, "Follow the Nuns to the Vat". And that is exactly what we did. With a small detour to get gelato on the way, of course!
The Vatican City
We had all been inside the Basilica and the Sistine Chapel, so we instead chose to enjoy our ice cream and the colours of the setting sun over the Vatican.
Saint Peter's Basilica
Day Three
The third day of our adventure began with a trip back to the airport to pick up our hire car. Ever impressed with our experience with Sixt, we drove away in a Audi Q2, en route to Pompeii. Possibly a little ambitious, we arrived around lunch time. Wasting no time, we headed in to explore.
Ruins of Pompeii
Personally, I have wanted to visit the Pompeii ruins for as long as I can remember. Behind architecture, volcanoes lay at the centre of my second career option when applying to university. However, studying architecture, and hence architectural history, I was beyond excited to finally make the journey.
Armed with a guidebook purchased from the gift shop, I acted as tour guide as we meandered our way through the ancient streets of Pompeii.
While we could have spent many more hours getting lost in the winding streets, the light was fading and we were being ushered out at 5pm. We spent a total of three hours inside the ruins. I would definitely recommend a whole day to see everything.
Our final adventure for the day was driving through the narrow streets, in the dark, during "Pompeii peak hour". After coming to a complete stop at one point, the second car in a line of impassable traffic coming from the other direction and plenty of yelling in Italian, we were relieved to make it to our accommodation.
At Villa Julia, we were met by a jolly man, who spoke little English, but who tried ever so hard to communicate where we would find the best pizza in town. We never did find it.
Day Four
Personally, I have wanted to visit the Pompeii ruins for as long as I can remember. Behind architecture, volcanoes lay at the centre of my second career option when applying to university. However, studying architecture, and hence architectural history, I was beyond excited to finally make the journey.
The Pompeii Ruins
Armed with a guidebook purchased from the gift shop, I acted as tour guide as we meandered our way through the ancient streets of Pompeii.
The Pompeii Ruins
While we could have spent many more hours getting lost in the winding streets, the light was fading and we were being ushered out at 5pm. We spent a total of three hours inside the ruins. I would definitely recommend a whole day to see everything.
The Pompeii Ruins - Civic Forum
Our final adventure for the day was driving through the narrow streets, in the dark, during "Pompeii peak hour". After coming to a complete stop at one point, the second car in a line of impassable traffic coming from the other direction and plenty of yelling in Italian, we were relieved to make it to our accommodation.
At Villa Julia, we were met by a jolly man, who spoke little English, but who tried ever so hard to communicate where we would find the best pizza in town. We never did find it.
Day Four
Driving the Amalfi Coast was a highlight all round. On the last day of our holiday, we set off bound for Sorrento. A brief stop was taken to admire the view over Meta Campania.
Meta Campania
Sorrento
Breakfast, consisting of coffee and Nutella croissants, was taken in Sorrento. We easily parked just off the main road, and wandered into the town. Unfortunately, we were pressed for time and could only spare a few moments to take in the view of the water from the Sorrento heights.
Sorrento
On the drive from Sorrento to Positano, via San Filippo , we were spoiled with views of Capri.
Views of Capri
Positano
Road into Positano
We were all ecstatic to arrive into Positano after capturing glimpses of the magical cliff-side town as we wound our way along the sea-front roads. Initially, we missed the turn onto the one way road down into the centre, and had to track back. We parked in one of the exorbitant parking stations that insisted we leave the car keys with them. Mildly concerning..
Positano
Of course, this didn't spoil our enjoyment of the picturesque location. We hastily made our way to the beach for a few snaps, and found some reasonably priced pizza slices, within half an hour.
Positano Beach
Our keenness to continue along the coast was rudely interrupted by roadworks and a closed road. Turning back, we made the call to head for the airport. With Will behind the wheel, we quickly ascended the terrain, and more than a few hairpin turns.
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On our way back to Rome, we detoured via Naples, and quickly detoured back out. On returning to London, and telling my parents about our trip and Naples, my dad asked, "Do they follow the road rules there yet?", and I think that tells you everything you need to know.
Completely wrecked, and a little cranky, we were all ready to head back to London and enjoy a Christmas day sleep in. This was only slightly delayed by the chaos at the airport caused by the closure of the tubes. This resulted in outbursts directed at the National Express bus driver, and protesters standing in front of the bus to prevent it from leaving. We were very glad to have pre-purchased our tickets, and crawled into bed shortly after 2:30am.
I'll meet you in North London,
I'll be waiting on Primrose Hill.
We can watch the lights over London,
Sitting with you in the night chill.
The Heath in July we be walking,
Until the leaves turn brown.
In the winter the Inn will be calling,
I'll see you in Camden Town.
I'll meet you in North London
Where I know I'm not alone,
Waiting for a summer in London,
Cause I call North London home.
I have friends who are stay at home mothers
Friends who are working mothers
Friends who are trying to have babies
Friends who have lost babies
Friends who are okay not to have babies
I have friends who are career driven
Friends who are starting their careers
Friends who are side hustling hard
Friends who are busting through glass ceilings
Friends who have had to start again
I have friends who have bought houses
Friends who own three houses
Friends who are saving hard to buy houses
Friends who travel the world
Friends who live with their parents
I have friends who married at 21
Friends who married at 28
Friends who are okay with not getting married
Friends who are single and are happy
Friends who are in relationships and are happy
I have friends who like men
Friends who like women
Friends who like both
Friends who like neither
Friends who don't see gender
I have friends who are religious
Friends who are spiritual
Friends who are neither
Friends who are undecided
Friend who are open minded
I have friends of different age, race and background...
And they are ALL amazing women doing their thing!!
They inspire me everyday to be the best woman I can be!
Sagrada Familia
I would like to premise this post by stating that in no way am I telling you how best to spend your time when visiting the places I write about. Why am I saying this? Well I am sure it will largely become evident in the following post.
Day One
We began the morning at 4:30am, and still riddled with the flu I struggled to pull myself out of bed. A quick jot up to our local National Express bus stop and we were on the 5:20 am to Luton Airport. I found myself sat next to a girl who was less than impressed when I asked for the seat she had assigned her bag (no it wasn't Adrienne). Thankfully, for the first time in recent weeks, we weren't running through the airport to make our flight. I certainly didn't feel like running that's for sure.
We arrived in Barcelona a little after 10am. This being our third trip to Spain we have learnt that the Spanish are lacking when it comes to signage, but after a few detours we found the train station. The train itself was very easy. There are two options from here to get into the city, the Metro or the R2N line. We chose the R2N, bought our tickets and were off.
Casa Batlló
Our first stop was Casa Batlló, the famous apartments designed by Spanish Architect Antoni Gaudi. We emerged from the metro at Passeig de Gràcia to find a sea of people and a line that stretched around the corner. We found a few different vantage points where we could stand to take a few snaps and then headed to find food.
Tip 1: Pre-book tickets online!
Casa Batlló
Lunch had to be paella of course!! And as much as I like to avoid very touristy dining spots, it was hard to find anything on our walk from Casa Batlló to La Sadrada Familia. While I very much encourage the consumption of paella, I recommended doing some research before sitting down.
Tip 2: If there are pictures of the food, its aimed at tourists and probably over priced. (I learnt this one of another European adventure years ago.
La Sagrada Familia
I was beside myself with excitement to walk inside the beautiful basilica designed by Gaudi. I had seen photos and knew we were in for a treat. I had pre-booked tickets the night before hoping to fast-track in. However, we waited in line only to be told we had been scammed. What I thought I had bought were two adult tickets, what I had in fact received were child tickets. Thank you Tictac Tickets for ruining my day!
The helpful staff at La Sagrada Familia informed us while they are trying to take legal action against companies like this, there was nothing they could do and made some suggestions on where we could purchase tickets. Unfortunately, tickets were sold out for the next 5 days. So we picked ourselves up and headed to the water.
Tip 3: Only buy tickets from the actual legitimate website or ones that they recommend.
Sagrada Familia
We picked ourselves up, dusted ourselves off and headed to the beach. After buying an ice cream, we parked ourselves on some steps overlooking the ridiculously large boats in the marina. Utterly exhausted, we decided to call it a day and headed back into Barcelona city to meet Adrienne's family who put us up for the night at the Dally Flats.
Finding a dinner location proved to be an interesting task. While there are endless options, restaurants in Barcelona seem to be scattered across the city. After walking around in circles, we landed on a place (whose name we didn't note) that ticked the dietary requirement box of all five travelers; a share paella, a bowl of spaghetti bolognese, and a large serving of beef and chips.
Day Two
La Rambla
Up and out at 9am, we grabbed a quick breakfast at Pans & Company, before heading to La Rambla.
This particular day seemed quiet, however there were still plenty of restaurants with fancy drinks and market stalls with nifty souvenirs.
Along La Rambla
Unfortunately, we didn't manage to visit Mercat de la Boqueria as it is closed on Sunday. I have heard it is incredible and highly advise to prioritise a visit for a day it is open.
Tip 4: Check opening times.
Along La Rambla
Gothic Quarter
A wonder around Gothic Quarter was a wonderful way to end my time sightseeing Barcelona. This is the place to find the more traditional spanish architecture and some amazing plazas including Plaza Real.
Plaza Real
Before I left Adrienne and her family, and headed to the airport we had a farewell lunch at Restaurante Nuria. Conveniently located at the northern end of La Rambla, the food was excellent with very generous servings. Of particular note, the calamari was the best I have had in a long time.
It had been my hope to also see Parc Guell on this trip, however tickets were sold out for days in advance. It was now I accepted I would be returning to Barcelona in the future, and I'm totally fine with that.
The journey back to the airport wasn't without confusion, only in purchasing tickets having forgotten you can simple take the metro. The signage in reverse was no better on the airport side of the return trip, but I made it el solo with plenty of time to spare.
Until next time Barcelona, it's been real..brief!
The Eiffel Tower
Having both been to Paris on at least one occasion, Adrienne (best friend and travel buddy) and I were keen to pick the eyes out of Paris on our 4 day mini-break in the French capital. After our Barcelona experiences we pre-booked all of our tickets prior to our journey across the channel.
As much as we were eager to jump on the train at King's Cross and appear in Paris a couple of hours later, early investigations suggested flying was a much more economical option.
Day One
Even though we have agreed we wouldn't fly early morning on this mid-week trip, we just could not help ourselves. Our day began at 4am for the 7am flight to Paris, arriving a little after 9am local time. We found ourselves on the RER B line into the city after managing a quick customs check. As is traditional with trains to and from the airport the tickets are pricey at €10:30, however this allows you to travel to anywhere in the city, and its still cheaper than an Uber.
One thing to note, Paris is deceptively large. If you want to move across the city it is best you plan to take the metro.
Eiffel Tower
Having arrived too early to check into our accommodation we made a beeline to the Eiffel Tower. After simply admiring it from behind the newly constructed glass barricade at the ground, we wondered across the Seine to the Palais du Chaillot. This is where the millions of tourists who visit Paris every year take their iconic Eiffel Tower snaps. We did not stay long, inevitably failing to avoid being in the background of someone's photos.
The Eiffel Tower from Pont de Bir-Hakeim
In true french style, we grabbed a quick baguette sandwich for lunch before making the trek back to our accommodation. Our journey took in the scenery along the Seine to the west of the Eiffel Tower. We crossed the river at the Pont de Bir-Hakeim, which is an arguably better spot to take photos of Le Tour Eiffel due to the lack of surrounding tourists. Around this time we also purchase our first of many crepes.
For this trip we chose to stay at Nouvel Hotel Eiffel which was perfectly situated for all our Parisian needs. After a quick nap and a cup of tea we were refreshed and ready to head out for some food. We chose to eat at Piou, a restaurant we had past earlier that day, with a very traditional Parisian vibe and alfresco seating.
The Eiffel Tower by night is just as spectacular as by day, so after our feast we made haste to Champ de Mars. The light show on the hour is not to be missed, nor is the opportunity to enjoy another Nutella crepe while watching the twinkling lights.
The Eiffel Tower at Night
Day Two
Chateau du Versailles
We pre-purchased timed entry tickets for Chateau du Versailles, which I would highly recommended to avoid standing in long lines, for €20 each which gave us access to the Chateau, the gardens and the Trianon. We caught the RER C from Bir Hakeim arriving in Versailles 40 minutes later. The Chateau is hard to miss on the short walk from the train station. If all else fails, just follow the people.
Chateau du Versailles
The timed ticket meant we headed straight in and through security at our allotted time. We collected our audio guides and began our self-guided tour. Although this was my third visit to Versailles I never get over the access you are granted to the Chateau. It is always the highlight of my holiday!
Hall of Mirrors
Lunch was at the cafe Angelina within the palace. It wasn't cheap! So if you are keen to stick to a budget I suggest a packed lunch.
After lunch we headed out into the vast gardens that surround the palace. The gardens of Versailles are so sprawling you could spend the whole day wondering through the landscape, or if you don't have time you can hire a bike or a golf cart to make it a little quicker. We, naively, went on foot. The Trianon are located in the far corner of the estate, its a lovely walk past the grand canal and up the tree-lined road. In all my visits I had never been inside the Grand Trianon or the Petit Trianon. It was a real treat to explore Marie Antoinette's Estate and the English inspired gardens.
Apollo's Fountain
We headed back into Paris as we had planned to indulge in some traditional French cuisine at Chez Germaine. The small restaurant in Ecole-Militare offers a small menu with really wonderful food. We chose escargot and a baked camembert for the entree, and duck confit and squid's ink risotto for our mains. I would definitely go back there again! The service is friendly, the food is legendary.
Day Three
Arc de Triomphe and Champs-Élysées
On this, our third day in Paris, we had planned to climb to the top of the Arc de Triomphe to take in the view. That particular day also happened to be the most foggy and rainy day of the trip. As the Eiffel Tower disappeared from view, we made the decision to instead endure the rain from the Champs-Élysées. With a quick stop at Laduree for some macarons, Sephora to admire the cosmetics and Pomme du Pain for lunch, we made it to the Jardin des Tuileries a little bit grumpy and a lot wet. We headed back to the hotel for a quick rest before returning to the Jardin des Tuileries a couple of hours later.
Arc de Triomphe
Laduree
Musee du Louvre
It has been an inside joke for years that every time I visit Paris I manage to see a little more of the Louvre than the previous trip. Once again, we pre-booked our timed-entry tickets online so we had priority entry.
Note: You can actually enter the Louvre prior to the entry time on your ticket. The time only dictates when you can scan into the exhibition halls. So arrive early, maximise your time and enjoy the full experience!
Musee du Louvre
We booked our entry for 5:30pm on the late night Friday, with the full intention of seeing the whole museum. With 3 hours (not including a small dinner break) we had to move at a fairly brisk pace to cover as much ground as possible.
Napoleon III Apartments
While we could have potentially seen every inch of the building, after 2 hours of climbing up and down stairs, lining up to see the Mona Lisa, and hitting multiple dead ends, we found ourselves exhausted and slumped on a bench in front of Liberty Leading the People having covered only 3/4 of the museum. We both agreed the Musee du Louvre is a full day experience!
Our final day in Paris was dedicated to sleep, packing and getting to the airport on time. The only hiccup in the plan was the track work on the airport line that found us scrambling to get out of Gard du Nord and into an Uber. Thankfully we made it just in time for one more coffee and nutella pastry!
Au revoir Paris, a bientot!
Cardiff Castle
Day One
For this trip we thought we would try a bus instead of the train. Although it is a slightly longer journey at three and a half hours, tickets were a quarter of the price of the train at £22.
The National Express Bus departs London for Cardiff from Victoria Coach Station. For new players, it's a good five minute walk from the Victoria Station (depending on where you are coming from). So if you haven't been before best check where it is before hand, otherwise you too will be boarding the bus with two minutes to spare. Also, there is a reason the only seats left on the bus were next to the toilet...another reason to get there extra early!
"What's Occuring?"
We arrived in Cardiff at 11:30am and made it our first priority to grab a coffee, and some Welsh Cakes. Trip Advisor gave us the hot tip that the best Welsh Cakes close to the bus stop were from Fabulous, a small shop right across from the Castle. Not only were they hot and fresh, but we could buy 12 for £5. Needless to say, they didn't last long.
Welsh Cakes
Cardiff Castle
Cardiff Castle was high on our Cardiff to-do list. We took our fresh welsh cakes and hot coffee, and headed in.
The hour or two we were expecting to spend inside turned into almost four, having been completely unaware of the how much there was to explore. The £13.50 ticket will give you access to the grounds, the fort, and the house, and an audio guided so you can explore at your own pace. You can also add on a guided house tour for an extra £3.75.
We were surprised to learn that the origins of the castle were Roman. The remains of the original Roman walls, that the current castle is built on today, were only under covered a few decades ago. The castle has changed plenty over the centuries, evident in the ruined walls within the grounds.
We climbed the steep stairs up to the fort, and then to the top of the fort itself for an amazing view all over Cardiff and the surrounding valley.
The house too has seen many additions and alterations over hundreds of years by famous architects and designers. The architecture, decoration and craftsmanship is amazing, and definitely worth the visit.
As a World World buff, I also took particular interest in the walk through the castle walls, used as an air raid shelter during World War II.
Cardiff City
After checking into our hotel, we had an emergency wardrobe malfunction which required an immediate shopping expedition. Thankfully, it is as though half of Cardiff CBD is in fact a shopping centre, and St David's mall met all our shopping needs.
Cardiff comes alive on a Saturday night! There are plenty of places to eat, drink, and party. We decided on an Italian restaurant just away from the main area. Unlike everyone else in Cardiff, we weren't feeling so lively after a long day.
Millenium Centre
Cardiff Bay
8pm and with the summer sun still shining, we walked the twenty minutes down Bute Street to Cardiff Bay.
Keen to see the Millennium Centre and the Pierhead building, we seized the opportunity to take a few photos and check out the bay. I thoroughly enjoyed the water front which reminded me of home. Here you can also find National Assembly Building. Cardiff Bay has plenty of water front restaurants if you are keen to get away from the hustle and bustle of the CBD.
We walked back the much nicer Lloyd George Avenue, after attempting to hire bikes in the failing light and lack of phone battery.
Pierhead Building
Day Two
Armed with more coffee, we assembled at the John Batchelor Statue ready for the 11am Frogo Free walking tour with our guide Eugene. I absolutely love these walking tours. Every new city I visit I do another, I find out more about a city than I ever would by myself. And Cardiff with Eugene was no different.
For two and a half hours we walk through the streets of Cardiff, learning about the history of the city, the country of Wales, the food (of course), the Bute Family and the Castle.
Castle Arcade
After hearing about Madame Fromage from several people on the tour we just had to go there for lunch. Madame Fromage, located into the Castle Arcade is absolute cheese heaven! Adrienne had the traditional lamb stew, while I chose the vegetarian option - Goats Cheese toastie with salad. Now I am not kidding when I say cheese heaven!
After lunch we took a walk through the beautiful Bute Park that boosts an impressive collection of nationally significant trees. We were then onward to Sophia Garden to board the bus home.
Cardiff was not at all what I expected. It was quite wonderful really.
All my love, S
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